A Port Day That Became a Sea Day
Huahine, often referred to as the Garden of Eden of French Polynesia, was to be another opportunity to explore one of these beautiful South Pacific islands. Instead, today turned out to be a sea day for us, although we were anchored just offshore!
A little history first. Huahine is part of the Society Islands and is actually made up of two connected islands, Huahine Nui (Big Huahine) and Huahine Iti (Little Huahine), joined by a narrow bridge. The island has a fascinating Polynesian history, with archaeological evidence suggesting human settlement dating back to around the 11th century. For centuries, Huahine was governed through a number of chiefly territories, with Maeva in the north becoming an important political centre. It was home to Queen Teha’apapa, whom Captain James Cook encountered in 1769. Huahine maintained its own kingdom until the French annexation in 1895. Today, with its lush vegetation, archaeological sites, beautiful lagoons and traditional villages, it remains one of the more laid-back islands in French Polynesia.
Now, back to our day aboard the Zaandam.
On our original itinerary, Huahine was scheduled for 8:00 am to 5:00 pm, pretty much the same hours as our visit last year. However, the ongoing propulsion issue aboard the Zaandam has increasingly become a factor in our itinerary.
For those who may not be following along, this problem first came to light during the ship’s Alaska season back in June. While in Juneau, the ship experienced a technical problem with one of its propulsion systems. This resulted in an overnight stay for repairs and the cancellation of several remaining ports, including Skagway and Ketchikan, as well as Glacier Bay.
There was considerable discussion at the time about the possibility of fishing nets or other fishing gear becoming entangled around the propeller shaft. This is certainly a known problem for vessels operating in fishing waters, although Holland America has never publicly confirmed that this was the cause of Zaandam’s original problem.
Following repairs, the ship returned to service, but the consequences of operating with reduced speed have continued to affect this voyage. Primarily relying on the starboard engine, our cruising speed has been adjusted accordingly.
As a result, our scheduled time in Huahine was initially changed to 11:00 am to 7:00 pm. That sounded reasonable enough, giving everyone a little more time ashore.
Then came another announcement from the captain a few days ago. Apparently, due to daylight operating restrictions, a 7:00 pm departure was no longer an option, and our last tender back to the ship would now be at 5:00 pm.
Already, we were losing two hours of our revised port time.
But there was more.
Our travel guide had previously advised guests of two shuttle options to get from the tender landing area into town. One was a complimentary shuttle using the larger buses we remembered from last year. That would have been perfectly fine for us. The second, a more accessible option, was available for $20 per person through the ship.
Then, just last evening, we learned that the complimentary shuttle was no longer being offered. By this time, of course, all the tours and the remaining shuttle bus tickets were sold out.
Our Cruise Director’s recommendation for those guests without a tour or shuttle reservation was simply to enjoy the ship and the beautiful views from aboard.
Sorry, but I have to say this was a bit of a shortfall in the arrangements.
Tendering was also slow, with only one landing dock available ashore and priority being given to the ship’s shore excursions. Consequently, the first realistic opportunity for many independent guests to get off the ship was around 12:30 pm.
So, let’s put this all together. A port originally scheduled for nine hours, reduced to six hours, with the last tender at 5:00 pm, limited transportation options and no remaining tickets.
Well, what can I say? Without any real options once ashore, we decided to do exactly what the Cruise Director had suggested.
Yup, we made it a sea day!
Fortunately, we had visited Huahine last year, spending the day exploring the island and enjoying what it had to offer. So, while disappointed not to have another opportunity to get ashore, at least we weren’t missing out on somewhere completely new to us.
That said, I do think there is a bigger issue here that deserves some attention.
The Zaandam is a lovely ship, and the crew continues to do a wonderful job, but this propulsion situation has become an ongoing concern. The June incident in Alaska, the subsequent repairs, and now the continued adjustments to our operating speed and port schedules raise some reasonable questions.
I truly hope Holland America gets to the bottom of this before the Zaandam heads into the Southern Ocean next year. That’s a considerably different operating environment, with some very long stretches between ports.
Does this require another major repair, perhaps even a dry dock? I honestly don’t know. That would depend on the underlying mechanical problem and what the engineers determine needs to be done. But I would certainly like to see the matter fully resolved rather than continuing to work around it through reduced speeds and itinerary changes.
For now, Huahine will have to wait until another visit.
And as they say, every cruise has its sea days. Today, we just happened to have one while sitting right off a beautiful island!