Nuku Hiva has become a little like visiting an old friend. Our first visit here was back in 2009, when I would get up early, around 6 am, to watch the sail-in to what was our very first Grand Voyage port. It was stunning then, and it still is today. These days, however, I tend to save my enthusiasm for the sail-away, which is actually every bit as spectacular. Some things are just as enjoyable from the other end of the day!
We have returned here on a number of cruises since, and as mentioned before, this is a nice, easy and relatively simple port to explore. Well, with one small exception: the tendering arrangements. There is room for only one tender at a time, and the steps leading up to the pier are a little uneven, so you do need to watch your footing.
As the tender approaches, you are greeted by the welcoming calls of the locals, accompanied by drums and the wonderful rhythm of a local band. Once ashore, members of the welcoming committee offer you a little flower to tuck behind your ear. Such a lovely gesture and a very nice way to begin your visit.
A little history
Nuku Hiva is the largest island in the Marquesas Islands, an archipelago of dramatic volcanic islands located in the remote South Pacific, roughly 1,400 kilometres northeast of Tahiti. Unlike the low-lying coral atolls we have been visiting, the Marquesas are a very different landscape, with towering volcanic peaks, deep valleys, rugged coastlines and lush vegetation.
The Marquesan people have a long and fascinating Polynesian history, with their ancestors arriving by ocean-going canoes many centuries ago. Their culture developed in relative isolation and became particularly renowned for its intricate tattooing, woodcarving, stone sculptures, tapa cloth and distinctive ceremonial traditions.
The islands first entered European records in 1595, when Spanish explorer Álvaro de Mendaña sighted Fatu Hiva and named the group after the wife of the Viceroy of Peru, the Marquesa de Cañete. Other explorers followed, including Captain James Cook’s expedition in 1774 and American navigator Joseph Ingraham, who reached Nuku Hiva in 1791.
Nuku Hiva also has an interesting connection to American history. In 1813, American naval commander David Porter arrived with his fleet and attempted to establish an American presence on the island. A few years later, in 1842, American writer Herman Melville spent time here after leaving his whaling ship. His experiences in the Taipivai Valley inspired his first novel, Typee, which introduced many readers to the Marquesas.
Today, the Marquesas remain one of the more culturally distinctive parts of French Polynesia, and their traditional arts and crafts are very much part of that identity.
A familiar walk around town
There are a few hikes available from the port, and if you are feeling energetic, they offer some excellent views over the bay and surrounding mountains. These trails head off to your right as you leave the pier. Just remember to bring plenty of water. It gets hot here, and unlike the relatively flat atolls we have been visiting, this is volcanic, mountainous terrain. Those beautiful vistas come at a price, and you will have to work a little to earn them!
For us, as on previous visits, we head left, through the local artisan market and then continue along the road towards the rather unusual outdoor-style cathedral.
One of the things that keeps bringing us back is the incredible craftsmanship on display here. The carvings inside and around the church are remarkable, but it is the beautifully carved wooden doors that really catch my attention. The detail and workmanship are quite something. Marquesan woodcarving is an important part of the islands’ cultural heritage, with traditional designs and symbols reflecting ancestry, spirituality and the natural world.
Continuing along the same road, you come to an outdoor archaeological site, where you can get another glimpse into the traditional life of the Marquesan people. These ceremonial complexes, known as tohua, were important gathering places for the community. They were used for ceremonies, celebrations, dancing, feasting and other significant events. Nearby stone platforms, known as paepae, formed the foundations for important structures, while carved stone figures, or tiki, represented ancestral and spiritual figures.
It is quite fascinating to walk around these sites and imagine the activity that would once have taken place here, long before cruise ships and visitors became part of the landscape.
The missing piece of art!
Now, unfortunately for me, the main artisan building at the site was closed. I did a little digging afterwards, and there is some interesting background. The artisan centre in Taiohae underwent renovations and was reported to have reopened in April 2026. The work included improvements to the roof, the building's layout and visitor facilities. However, there is a shortage of space for local artists. At the time of the reopening, 24 artisans had secured space, while the community had around 50 artisans looking for somewhere to display and sell their work. So, while I found confirmation of the renovation, I couldn't establish exactly why the building was closed on our particular visit. It may have been a temporary closure or a staffing issue, but that's only a guess.
Now, here's where my disappointment comes in!
Last year, I spotted a beautiful piece of tapa cloth artwork in this very market. For those unfamiliar with tapa, it is a traditional bark cloth made by stripping the inner bark of trees such as the paper mulberry, breadfruit or banyan. The bark is soaked, softened and then painstakingly beaten with wooden mallets until it forms a thin, flexible sheet. The finished cloth can be left in its natural colour or decorated with traditional designs and patterns.
In the Marquesas, these designs often reflect the same geometric patterns, symbols and motifs found in traditional tattooing and woodcarving. It really is a beautiful art form, and one that carries a great deal of cultural significance.
Well, this particular piece has been living rent-free in my mind ever since I saw it! I didn't purchase it last year because, at the time, we simply couldn't see where we would put it. You know how that goes. Then, a few months later, I suddenly came up with the perfect location. And no, not in the bathroom as mentioned in a previous post, lol. The kitchen of the condo!
We knew we were returning to Nuku Hiva this year, so I was looking forward to stopping by and hopefully bringing my long-admired piece home. You can imagine my disappointment when I discovered the market was closed.
To make matters worse, it only dawned on me this morning that I actually had a photograph of the artwork on my iPhone. Had I remembered that earlier, I could have shown it around and perhaps someone might have been able to help locate the artist or find out whether the piece was still available. Of course, there is always the possibility it had been sold since last year, but I was holding out hope. Oh well, perhaps it wasn't meant to be!
A little rain and a little Gatsby
After that disappointment, there was really only one thing left to do. Find ourselves a nice cold 500 ml beer to take the edge off. Lol.
Our timing was actually pretty good. We settled into the covered deck with our refreshments, and wouldn't you know it, the skies suddenly opened up with what could only be described as monsoon-type rain.
Remember those weather gods I mentioned in an earlier post? Well, I'm beginning to think they are following us around! At least this time we had somewhere comfortable to sit and watch the show.
Once the rain passed, we made our way back to the tender pier and were aboard the ship by about 2 pm. Just in time for a late lunch. All in all, another enjoyable visit to an island that has become a familiar favourite, even if I did leave without my tapa artwork.
Tonight was a completely different sort of entertainment. It was The Great Gatsby Night, and the ship had gone all out to celebrate the Roaring Twenties and everything Gatsby.
From the hallways and corridors to the dining room and show lounge, the ship was dressed for the occasion. There was certainly no shortage of glitz and glamour, and many of our fellow passengers got into the spirit of things with their outfits.
But the evening had another little surprise. A mock jewellery theft had been staged at the Etsy store, involving a necklace valued at $50,000! Eight suspects were paraded around and questioned during the party as everyone tried to figure out who the culprit might be.
And where was the missing jewellery eventually found? Hidden in the culprit's shirt pocket! Quite the little mystery and a fun addition to the evening's festivities.
It was a great way to finish another day in the Marquesas. A little history, some beautiful local craftsmanship, a missed shopping opportunity, a beer, a tropical downpour and a little mystery to finish things off.
Please enjoy some pictures of our day. Hope you enjoy!
