An Unexpected Bonus Day in Paradise!
Well, this was an interesting start to what was supposed to be another relaxing sea day aboard the Zaandam.
It was 9:00 am, November 7th, and we were all settling into our usual sea-day routines when we heard the familiar ding, ding, ding! Now, that’s an unusual time for the captain to make an announcement. Captain Thomas van Benthem came on the PA system with some rather interesting news.
Apparently, we had increased our speed during the night and, rather than having a shortened visit to Fakarava tomorrow, we were now preparing for an 11:00 am arrival TODAY!
Well, how about that? Two usable days in this remote little paradise instead of one. A bonus day indeed!
I learned a little more about the reason for our change of schedule later in the day. Repairs to the port-side engine have been ongoing, and apparently last night’s test of that engine was successful. Good news for Holland America, we shall see how things progress, but certainly good news for the passengers!
The ship continued with its regular sea-day program, including the speakers, activities and other scheduled events. However, once we arrived, guests were permitted to go ashore by tender, with the last tender scheduled for 7:00 pm. Not a bad way to turn a sea day into a bonus port day!
A Little History of Fakarava
Fakarava is one of the beautiful atolls of the Tuamotu Archipelago, located approximately 430 kilometres northeast of Tahiti. Unlike the mountainous islands we’ve visited, Fakarava is a classic coral atoll, a narrow ring of coral motus surrounding an enormous turquoise lagoon.
The atoll is approximately 60 kilometres long and has a lagoon covering around 1,121 square kilometres. That’s a lot of beautiful blue water!
Its main village is Rotoava, where most of the island’s approximately 950 residents live, according to the 2022 census. Interestingly, the wider Commune of Fakarava, which includes several neighbouring atolls, has a population of approximately 1,679.
Fakarava has a fascinating history. It was once an important regional centre in the Tuamotus and became an early centre of French missionary activity during the nineteenth century. Catholic missionary Honoré Laval arrived in the region in 1849, and the church at Rotoava was blessed in 1850. The older coral church at Tetamanu, dating from 1874, is another reminder of those early days.
For generations, life here has revolved around the ocean and the resources it provides. Coconut cultivation and copra production (dried coconut meat used to produce coconut oil), fishing and pearl cultivation have all played important roles in the local economy. Today, tourism has become increasingly important, particularly for visitors attracted by the exceptional marine life.
In 2006, the Fakarava area received UNESCO Biosphere Reserve recognition. This designation covers seven atolls and recognizes the importance of protecting the region’s extraordinary marine and terrestrial environments while allowing local communities to continue their traditional activities.
A Diver’s and Snorkeler’s Paradise
If there is one thing Fakarava is particularly famous for, it’s the underwater world.
The atoll has two major reef passages connecting the ocean with its enormous lagoon.
The northern passage, Garuae, is approximately 1.6 kilometres wide and is the largest pass in French Polynesia. The southern passage, Tumakohua, near the old village of Tetamanu, is considerably narrower but is internationally famous for its extraordinary concentration of marine life.
These passages are particularly attractive to scuba divers because of the tidal movements. As the tide changes, enormous quantities of ocean water move through the openings in the reef, bringing nutrients and attracting an incredible variety of marine life.
Divers can encounter grey reef sharks, blacktip reef sharks, barracuda, groupers, rays, turtles and countless tropical fish. The southern pass is especially famous for its spectacular gatherings of grey reef sharks, sometimes referred to as the famous shark wall.
One of the most remarkable natural events occurs around June and July, when thousands of groupers gather to spawn. This attracts large numbers of sharks, creating one of the most extraordinary underwater spectacles in the Pacific.
Snorkelers can also enjoy the incredible marine life, particularly in calmer lagoon areas and around suitable sections of the reef. However, the passes themselves are a different proposition. The currents can be extremely powerful, and exploring them should be left to experienced divers or guided excursions with knowledgeable local operators.
Getting Around Fakarava
Unlike some of the larger ports we’ve visited, Fakarava has very limited infrastructure and simply cannot accommodate the usual large-scale cruise ship excursions.
There are no Holland America-sponsored tours here, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t opportunities to explore.
Local vendors offer a variety of snorkeling excursions, lagoon trips and scuba diving experiences. If you’re interested in any of these, I would strongly recommend arranging them in advance whenever possible.
There are also a few local taxis, but one of the increasingly popular ways to explore the island is by bicycle. Regular bicycles and electric bikes are available, although rentals are limited, so booking early is definitely advisable.
For those simply wanting to enjoy a little beach time, there are beautiful stretches of shoreline along the island. The main thing to remember is that this is a small, remote community, so don’t expect the facilities or transportation options of a more developed tourist destination.
Our Afternoon in Paradise
As for Jan and me, we decided to make the most of our unexpected afternoon ashore.
We left the Zaandam at approximately 1:00 pm and headed to the right along the main road from the tender pier. Our destination was a restaurant, bar and small hotel about a 45-minute walk away.
We had visited this beautiful spot last year and were looking forward to returning.
What a lovely setting! There is a wonderful covered restaurant area, along with tables and shaded palapa spots right beside the lagoon. Some of the tables are actually set out over the water, allowing you to enjoy a drink or a meal while looking straight down into the lagoon.
And here’s the real attraction: the fish and even a few sharks swim around you!
It’s rather like sitting in your own private aquarium. Lol!
A little word of warning, though: please don’t feed the fish or sharks. You’ve been warned!
We managed to secure one of the lovely water tables and settled in for a beer, a swim and a little snorkeling. Not exactly a hardship, is it?
We spent about an hour enjoying ourselves before transferring to a regular restaurant table for a very nice lunch.
Eventually, we decided it was time to make our way back towards the tender pier. We started our stroll around 3:30 pm, but, of course, we couldn’t pass up another beautiful beach along the way.
So, we stopped for yet another swim and snorkel. I must say, bringing our portable folding chairs along on this cruise has turned out to be an excellent decision. They have certainly earned their keep!
It was a lovely afternoon, and all the more enjoyable knowing that we had another day here tomorrow.
Dinner at the Pinnacle
Now, because today was originally scheduled as a sea day, we had already made dinner reservations with our friends Henk and Lucia at the Pinnacle Grill, Holland America’s specialty restaurant.
Do you remember the fresh Mahi Mahi we saw being purchased a few days ago? Well, guess what? It had made its way onto tonight’s menu!
Now, the Pinnacle is generally known for its steaks, but tonight we decided to go a different route. Jan and I both ordered the fresh Mahi Mahi.
And delicious it was! A very generous portion, beautifully prepared, and certainly a nice change from the usual steakhouse offerings.
We had a wonderful evening with Henk and Lucia, enjoying good food, good conversation and plenty of laughs.
All in all, quite a day. What started out as an ordinary sea day turned into an unexpected afternoon in one of French Polynesia’s most beautiful atolls.
And the best part?
Tomorrow we get to do it all over again!
Our bonus day in Fakarava awaits. Sometimes the best things on a cruise are the surprises you didn’t plan for.
Until tomorrow, happy cruising!
