There are certain places in the world that just stick with you, and for me, Rangiroa is one of those. It was here, twelve years ago, that I did my very first discovery scuba dive — right in an area called The Aquarium. I still remember the feeling of descending into that clear blue water for the first time, surrounded by coral and curious fish. So when I saw Rangiroa on this itinerary again, I knew I had to return — this time not as a diver, but as a snorkeler.
A little background on Rangiroa
Rangiroa is part of the Tuamotu Archipelago in French Polynesia and is actually one of the largest atolls in the world. The name means “vast sky,” which feels pretty fitting when you’re here — the horizon seems to stretch forever in every direction. The atoll has been inhabited for centuries, originally by Polynesian settlers, and later became a centre for missionary work and coconut (copra) production in the 19th century.
Today, the main village is Avatoru, with Tiputa across the pass. The population of the atoll sits at around 2,500 people, a slight increase from about 2,200 when we were last here in 2013. Life here still revolves around the lagoon — tourism, pearl farming, fishing, and a bit of copra production make up most of the local economy. Over the years, pearl farming has declined (fewer farms now), but tourism has grown steadily, especially around diving and snorkelling.
Since our last visit, Rangiroa feels a little more polished but still wonderfully relaxed. There’s now a brand new tender pier in a much better location — right next to the public beach and the Kia Ora Resort & Spa. Twelve years ago the pier was further away and not nearly as convenient. It’s small changes like that which make a big difference for visitors but haven’t spoiled the character of the island.
Returning to The Aquarium
We had our usual leisurely breakfast this morning — no rush. I had already decided not to book a ship excursion for this stop. In my 2013 blog, I had written that there were plenty of local vendors right at the tender dock who offered trips to The Aquarium — and that there was really no need to book through the ship. I remembered that advice and stuck with it.
We waited until open tenders and got off around 10:30. By the time we reached the pier it was about 11:00. Right away I noticed the new setup — clean, well laid out, and just steps from the beach. A big improvement over the old location.
As we walked off the pier, a local vendor approached offering a one-hour snorkel trip to The Aquarium for $60 USD. I remember it being $40 back in 2013, but to be fair, it’s now a farther ride thanks to the new pier. He was leaving in about ten minutes, so I asked him to wait while I got Jan set up on the beach. (That wouldn’t have been possible before — the public beach was a 30-minute walk away back then!) He said no problem.
Only four of us ended up going out. The setup is simple: one boat shuttles people back and forth, while another boat stays anchored at the snorkel site. When we arrived, the previous group hopped back onto the shuttle, and we took over their spots. Easy and efficient.
I spent the next hour floating above coral heads and schools of colourful fish, and it brought back memories of that first dive years ago. When my time was up, the transit boat arrived with just two new snorkelers coming out and about six heading back. The captain asked if I wanted to stay another hour. I said, “Isn’t my time up?” He smiled and said, “Stay if you like, I’ll be back in an hour.” That kind of relaxed, flexible approach is one of the things I love about going with local operators. You’d never get that on a ship tour!
In the end, I decided to head back since Jan was waiting on the beach. He grabbed my gear, transferred it over, and we were on our way.
A perfect beach afternoon
Back at the beach, I found Jan sitting comfortably in the shade of a tree, book in hand, perfectly content. There were plenty of chairs available for anyone to use — no charge — another nice improvement from a decade ago.
We went for a snorkel right off the beach and it was actually quite good. Not as fish-dense as The Aquarium, but still a nice variety and plenty to see for a casual snorkeler. For anyone not wanting to go out on a boat, this would be more than enough.
Later we took a short stroll — all of 300 yards — across to the other side of the island. The surf there was rough, definitely not for swimming, but it made for a nice walk. We returned to “our” beach for a final swim and snorkel before calling it a day.
All the while, local vendors were selling handicrafts and playing music under the palms, giving the whole scene that easy, friendly Sunday vibe that Polynesia does so well.
Reflections
It’s always a bit special coming back to a place that holds a personal milestone. For me, Rangiroa will always be “the place where I first went diving.” Coming back a dozen years later and seeing how it’s changed — but also how much it’s stayed the same — was really satisfying.
The new pier, the local snorkel operators, and the improved beach setup make it an easier stop now, but it’s still the same quiet, beautiful atoll I remember. The water is still impossibly clear, the people still smiling, and the pace still perfectly slow.
A few lessons re-learned today:
- No need to rush off on the first tender. A late morning start works just fine.
- Local tours are flexible, friendly, and often better value than the ship’s.
- Don’t overlook the beach snorkelling — it’s surprisingly good.
- And maybe most importantly, sometimes the best days are the simple ones: a snorkel, a swim, and an afternoon under a tree in paradise.
As we headed back to the ship, I couldn’t help but think… hmm, how’s the weather back home?
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