Our stop today brought us back to Nuku Hiva, the largest of the Marquesas Islands in French Polynesia — a remote and rugged beauty that feels both untouched and quietly evolving. The island itself covers about 130 square miles (339 km²) and is home to roughly 3,000 residents, most living around the main village of Taiohae, where the tender brings you ashore. The local economy is built on fishing, small-scale agriculture, and a touch of tourism, with cruise visits like ours adding a gentle rhythm to island life.
This is a place that doesn’t rush to modernize — though this visit, our fourth time here, we noticed a few changes since our last stop some twelve years ago. There are more sailboats and catamarans anchored in the bay, more vehicles navigating the narrow roads, and a sprinkling of new homes — nothing flashy, but definitely signs of steady growth and development.
Exploring Ashore
There’s only one official cruise excursion offered here — a general highlight tour — but honestly, Nuku Hiva is one of those easy ports for self-exploration. Having been here before, we decided to revisit some of our favorite spots from that earlier trip, with a bit of nostalgia leading the way.
Interestingly, for the first time, the port information sheet mentioned a swimming beach about three-quarters of a mile to the right of the tender pier. This was curious given the ship’s morning announcement cautioning guests not to swim at the beach immediately to the left of the tender port — apparently, the sharks in this bay are not the “friendly” kind we’d met at earlier islands! Which raises the question: how exactly do the sharks know to stay on one side of the harbor? Is there a sign in the water they politely obey? (lol) I’m not sure anyone actually tested that theory.
A Walk Through Town
We chose a leisurely stroll along the waterfront, circling past a few old stone relics, the lovely cathedral, and the handicraft market, which remains as charming and welcoming as ever. Local artisans were set up with carvings, tapa cloths, and jewelry — always a pleasure to browse and chat with the vendors.
We also visited the cemetery and then stopped in at the small museum that holds a special place in our memories. It was originally curated by Rose, a wonderful woman who welcomed visitors with warmth and a genuine passion for sharing her island’s culture. Sadly, we learned that Rose has since passed away, though a touching photo of her in her later years now hangs inside. The new caretaker is equally friendly but speaks only limited English. It warmed our hearts to see Rose’s name still proudly displayed on the museum sign — a fitting tribute. (For anyone looking for it, the museum is in the house directly in front of the sign.)
Le Nuku Hiva – A Hidden Gem
From there, we made our way up the hill to the Le Nuku Hiva Hotel, which offers mountainside bungalows, a French restaurant, and a terrace bar overlooking the bay — complete with an infinity pool. We’d planned ahead, wearing our bathing suits under our clothes and packing towels in our backpack, and it was well worth it. There’s nothing like enjoying a cold beverage and a swim with that view!
It’s a bit of a trek for the average stroller, and taxis are few and far between, but it’s absolutely worth the effort. We spotted about ten other cruise guests — half savoring a relaxed lunch on the deck, the others lounging poolside with drinks in hand. A few lazy hours well spent.
Back to the Bay
Our walk back took us once again past the handicraft center and along the grassy waterfront path, where we watched several sharks gliding just below the surface — beautiful, but enough to confirm that today was not an ocean swim day!
Looking Ahead
After so many port days, we’re actually looking forward to some sea time — six days ahead to rest, read, and just watch the waves. As I write this, we’re sitting out on the promenade deck, shaded from the sun, with seven to ten foot swells, a fresh breeze, and just a few degrees separating us from the equator. We’ll be crossing it around 1 a.m. tonight.
Ahh… bliss.
