Taiohae, Nuku Hiva, French Polynesia - November 27, 2013

The Marquesas Islands group is one of the most remote in the world, lying about 852 miles northeast of Tahiti. In contrast to the common perception of lush tropical vegetation that goes culturally hand-in-hand with the appellation "Polynesia", the Marquesas are remarkably dry islands. Although the islands lie within the tropics, they are the first major break in the prevailing easterly winds spawned from the extraordinarily dry (from an atmospheric perspective) Humboldt Current. Because of this, the islands are subject to frequent drought conditions, and only those that reach highest into the clouds (2,500 feet above sea level) have reliable precipitation, more of a mist really.

Nuku Hiva is split by deep valleys flanked by razor-sharp ridges so steep that few plants can cling to them. The more gentle lower slopes are splendid grazing grounds for cattle and wild horses, while the few coastal flats contain small friendly villages. The majority of the coastlines are jagged cliffs that fall quickly into the blue Pacific.

Taiohae on the south side of Nuku Hiva, is the principal settlement of Nuku Hiva and is the capital of the Marquesas Islands. On either side of the entrance to the bay are two small islands, called "The Sentinels". The western "sentinel" is called Motu Nui, and the eastern one is Mata 'Ua Puna. Muake, a mountain rising behind the town to an elevation of 2,835 feet above sea level, dominates the landscape of the town. Nuku Hiva has remained an unspoiled island with spellbinding archaeological sites and natural landscapes to offer. Located in the center of a crater, half sunk in the ocean, the village is close to the deserted black sand beaches. About 2,500 people live on Nuku Hiva.

We had a bit of a sleep in this morning not getting off the ship until 9:15, this is a lazy easy port with very limited shore excursion options, fine by me. We had been here once before and pretty much did a repeat by walking around the semi circle island stopping at a few of the main attractions.

After a bit of retail therapy we headed to the Cathedral of Notre-Dame of Marquesas which is built with various rocks from the six islands of the Marquesas. The gate to the compound was part of a wall from the original 19th-century church, but this modern version was built in 1977. Going inside and you will see the marvelous stone carvings and woodcarvings that each island donated to the cathedral. The pulpit and Stations of the Cross are elaborately carved from single trunks of tamanu (ironwood). The artists gave the biblical stories a Marquesan touch. St. Paul holds a spear instead of his Sword of Damascus, the breadfruit substitutes as the olive tree, and Hinano beer is depicted as one of the seven deadly sins!

Across the street facing Taiohae Bay stands the restored Temehea Pae Pae with the paved area of the pae pae, a tohua, the reconstruction of a Marquesan hut and a marae. The Pae Pae is adorned by a number of giant tiki that were made for the 1989 Marquesas Islands Festival. The site also includes a group of contemporary statues, made by artists from the Marquesas as well as from Easter Island. One could call this a natural outdoor museum. I have included a few pictures of this area.



We then continued around the bay and came across Rose Corser's Boutique and Museum of Marquesan Culture which is the is best place to buy Marquesan art and it is also a terrific museum. You will see artifacts dating from the Polynesian settlement period of about A.D. 150 to the 1800s. Many of the ancient pieces are on loan from Marquesan families, who have owned them since the dawn of Polynesian time. The carvings, tapa-cloth paintings, grain-seed necklaces, and kumu hei (a local lei made of fragrant plants) and other items on sale are all unique pieces of art, not handicrafts. Rose is very friendly and enjoys showing visitors around her museum and boutique, when here be sure to drop on by.

From here we continued up the road to the Keikahanui Pearl Lodge which has cliff bungalows a bar/restaurant with an most impressive incredible view - the infinity pool is small but inviting. We met a few guests and our pianist Stryker here as they where enjoying beverages by the pool. With an invitation to join them we had a few drinks and drank in the view, a few even jumped into the pool - the staff were pretty laid back, no additional charge. Had I packed my suit I would have joined them.

Headed back around 2:30 and about half way we stopped into a convenience store and grabbed a baguette, some cheese and a couple of bananas and had a nice picnic while overlooking the bay with the ship in the distance reminiscing about this great grand voyage. Six days at sea and we will be in LA. I am sure there will be a lot of ship board activities keeping us very busy - we have already had the luggage people give us the talk about international shipping, so yes this is coming to an end.