Markets, Gardens, and a Farewell to the Sugar City
Bula again from beautiful Lautoka, Fiji! The word Bula means “life” or “hello” in Fijian, and it’s more than just a greeting—it’s a warm expression of the islands’ spirit and hospitality. Lautoka itself, known as The Sugar City, sits on the western side of Viti Levu and takes its name from a Fijian legend meaning “to spear.” According to local lore, two warring chiefs once fought here, and the victorious chief shouted Lautoka! as he struck his rival. Today, however, the only battles fought are those between the sweet scent of sugarcane and the salty ocean breeze.
Today marked our second and final day here in the Sugar City, and with an early all aboard time of 3:30 p.m., we decided to keep things simple and close to town. Having explored the beaches and countryside yesterday, there was really only one thing left on our Lautoka list—visiting the city centre itself.
Although the downtown area is only about a 20-minute walk from the port, much of that stretch passes through commercial and industrial zones that aren’t particularly scenic. Thankfully, a complimentary shuttle was available to take passengers straight to the main shopping district—a perfect convenience for the day’s short schedule.
From the drop-off point, we decided to make the short 15–20 minute walk to the Botanical Garden, hoping for a peaceful stroll among tropical plants. It’s easy to imagine that at one time this garden was quite a pleasant oasis, though it’s now looking a little tired and in need of a refresh. Still, every place has its charm, and it turns out the garden has a special appeal for birders. We actually ran into one of our fellow passengers there, binoculars in hand, searching for a species found only in this part of Fiji. It’s always wonderful to see how travel connects people through different passions—there really is something for everyone.
After our brief stop at the gardens, we made our way to the Lautoka Municipal Market, and wow—what an experience! This market truly buzzes with local energy and color. Stalls overflow with tropical produce—pineapples, papayas, taro, and of course, bundles of kava root ready for traditional ceremonies. The mix of cultures was fascinating; at moments, it felt like we were walking through markets in Sri Lanka or India, yet unmistakably Fijian in spirit and friendliness.
From there, we wandered over to Jack’s of Fiji, a well-known local department store chain that’s something of an institution here. It’s the go-to spot for souvenirs, jewelry, Fijian crafts, and clothing. For us, though, today’s visit was more “visual therapy” than retail therapy—lots of looking, no buying—but still enjoyable to browse and people-watch.
By about 1:30 p.m., we made our way back to the ship for lunch and a bit of downtime before sail away. The skies were cloud-covered but thankfully dry, a peaceful end to our stay in Lautoka. Sitting on deck, watching the port fade into the horizon, we reflected on how well our time here had balanced both sides of Fiji—the natural beauty and the daily life of its people.
Tomorrow brings our final stop in Fiji before we set sail for our next country—or should I say, our next Kingdom: Tonga!
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