Today brought an unexpected twist — a surprise public holiday here in the Kingdom of Tonga. We had planned a relaxed day exploring a few sights, but as it turned out, most of Nuku‘alofa was closed. The holiday, we learned, was a one-off celebration marking 50 years since the burning of the cross at Lapaha, a symbolic national event commemorating Tonga’s firm establishment of Christianity as the state religion in the 19th century. While it may sound unusual, the “cross burning” ceremony is not about destruction, but rather a re-enactment of the moment when ancient pagan idols and shrines were set aflame — representing the nation’s conversion to Christianity. The first such symbolic burning was held in 1966, marking the 100th anniversary of Tonga’s first Christian constitution, and has been remembered ever since.
Needless to say, few people seemed aware this particular anniversary would be declared a public holiday until it happened - including the ship’s crew and port lecturer! The result was a very quiet capital city: shops shuttered, markets still, and streets almost serene except for the occasional laughter from children and the ever-cheerful “Mālō e lelei!” greetings from passers-by.
This is our third visit to Tonga, so we weren’t in a rush to see everything again. Originally, we’d planned a short taxi tour to visit a few favorites — the Hufangalupe Arch, the dramatic Mapu‘a ‘a Vaea Blowholes, and the impressive Tsunami Rock, a massive boulder carried hundreds of meters inland by a prehistoric wave. But when two different drivers quoted prices nearly three times the usual rate, we politely declined, half-expecting a counter-offer. None came — so we set off on foot instead, meandering through Nuku‘alofa’s compact downtown and revisiting some of its small landmarks, while also finding a few new corners we’d missed before.
Our original plan for the day was to enjoy massages at a recommended spa, but once I confirmed the booking, an email followed explaining the closure due to the holiday. Fair enough — that’s island life! Still, we enjoyed a lovely stroll through town, stopping to chat with locals, admiring the rebuilt waterfront, and soaking up the friendly, unhurried atmosphere.
A highlight today was the welcome and farewell entertainment at the pier — traditional dancers, rhythmic drumming, and those big, genuine Tongan smiles that never fail to make you feel at home. It’s heartening to see how much has been restored here after the January 2022 tsunami, triggered by the eruption of the Hunga Tonga–Hunga Ha‘apai volcano. The eruption was one of the most powerful on record, sending ash and shockwaves across the Pacific and inundating parts of the capital. Much of the waterfront and port area have since been rebuilt and modernized, a visible symbol of the Tongan people’s resilience and community spirit.
It feels particularly meaningful to be back — as this was one of our final ports in early 2020, just before the global pandemic changed everything. Back then, our ship waited over an hour for clearance, as health officials double-checked every document and passenger list to ensure we were virus-free. The memory of that tense moment makes today’s calm, sunny arrival all the sweeter.
With the new pier shining in the sun, friendly faces waving from shore, and the sound of drums echoing over the harbor, Tonga once again reminds us why we love this part of the world. Public holiday or not, Nuku‘alofa’s warmth always shines through.
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