October 18, 2022, Funchal, Madeira, Portugal

We set foot on land after 7 days at sea on the Portuguese island of Madeira. There must have been some baited anticipation because I heard the lido marketplace was packed at 7am and then the mass rush to exit the ship once it was cleared. We have been here a few times so we aimed for our usual 10:30 departure from the ship. A little history, settlement first began here in around the 15th century during the Age of Exploration. In 1916 Madeira was the first to experience Portugal’s part in World War I when a torpedo sank three ships in the Funchal harbour. This same harbour now welcomes more cruise ships than any other in Portugal, and with that more than a million visitors each year. Madeira itself sits atop a massive shield volcano, comprised solely of hardened lava. The last time there was volcanic activity here was more than 6,000 years ago.

There is plenty to see and do all within easy walking distance of where the ships are docked. Our ship did offer a free shuttle (perks of a Grand Voyage and fantastic Hotel Director) to take you into the main downtown core. That said it really is only about a kilometre walk to the same drop off point. With overcast skies this morning we did jump on the shuttle and strolled the Main Street area towards the Forte de São Tiago located in the heart of Old Town. It is a bright yellow landmark that is definitely worth a visit, open 24 hours and no fee to walk around this old castle. We then strolled back along the pedestrian only, Rue Santa Maria, very quaint and beautiful. To help with the Covid recovery and to help beautify the neighbourhood they had a campaign for artists to paint their shop doors. This has certainly helped in making this street extra special. Pretty much at the end of Rue Santa Maria is the Mercado dos Lavradores (Public market), covering over a city block over 3 levels you can find everything from the fresh catch of the day fish market are to fruits and vegetables to flowers, clothes and souvenirs. They also had a little cafe there where we had to stop for our traditional Pasta de Nata - a little melt in your mouth creme tart, yum. We decided not to go up the gondola to the town of Monte, some 1800 feet up. We had done this in the past where from here you have a chance to take a sledge ride back down to the city, lots of fun but for us the weather had not cleared enough for us to jump on this opportunity again. In this area of Monte, before you come back down whether by sledge or the gondola, there is a beautiful botanical garden to stroll around in. We headed back to the waterfront where there is a nice walkway boulevard area to stroll all the way back to the ship. We did have to stop at the new CR7 store, museum, restaurant, hotel on the way back. For you soccer (football) fans out there, this is where Cristiano Ronaldo was born and he had had this large complex built that carries the CR7 name, definitely worth a visit and is only about 400 metres from where the ship is docked. Yes, we did stroll back to the ship for a late lunch and then spectacular sail away with clouds disappearing offering us incredible views of this wonderful city. I’m actually writing this from the back of the ship with it slowly disappearing from my sight line. Tomorrow begins a series of all new ports, the Canary Islands. Added footnote, In the fish market today they had what looked like eels, we have learned tonight that they are actually Black Scabbard. On this Grand Voyage despite many other cutbacks this one is an add too, they are calling in farm or local to table offerings. Depending on location and availability they will be bringing local products to the menu. Tonight we enjoyed fresh, local, Black Scabbard and it was fantastic. It was the special and it just tasted so fresh we had to ask, our server, Rico, said he would ask the chef and confirmed that indeed it was brought on board today. Nice, very nice. 

A few pics of our day, hope you enjoy…

Quote of the day, “My favourite things to do is to go where I’ve never been”. - Diane Arbus

The Black Scabbard